Engine Removed

The engine has been removed and the compartment has been cleaned using mineral spirits and degreaser.  After cleaning, the frame was primed with a zinc primer and painted black.

Note the motor mount that is bolted in place above the cross member awaiting the motor.

Motor Mount

This close-up of the motor mount shows that it is suspended between two rubber engine mounts.  Later, these engine mounts ripped almost immediately.  I replaced the rubber with metal tangs welded to the rubber mount bases.  There is no reason to mount the electric motor on rubber – there is no vibration.  Mount your electric motor solidly.

Mount Closeup

This shows the metal tangs/flanges welded to the original rubber mount base.  I chiseled the rubber off and burned it with a torch to clean the metal base of all remaining rubber.

Bed Removed

I removed the original bed, sandblasted the frame, primed it and painted it.  As you can see, it looks fresh from the factory.

Notice the extensions (shackles) I added to the leaf springs to gain height.  Also notice the air shocks.  This combination gives me the front-to-rear height balance that I wanted.

Batteries Installed

I purchased a small welding machine, a 14” cutoff saw and an angle grinder to do the metal work.  The metal stock is 1½” by 1/8” think steel angle and some flat stock.  The rack is securely bolted to the frame on each side and holds two rows of eight batteries.

The gray box hanging on the right side of the battery rack is a makeshift fuse box.  It contains a 600 A fuse.  I drilled some holes for venting in the plastic electrical box.

Note the flat-stock strapping across the top of the rack between the batteries.  These straps are bolted on with self-locking acorn nuts.  Holding the batteries securely in place is very important to prevent additional damage and injury in an accident.

If you look closely, you'll notice the terminal lugs connected to the terminals with a wing nut.  I have replaced the terminal lugs with terminal clamps for much better contact and to avoid terminal melt-down. I melted 3 terminals before changing over to clamps.

Motor Installation

It’s time to install the motor.  I made a strong wooden frame with the electric winch on top.  A hand operated control made it easy to maneuver the motor into place.

Note that the motor has the motor-to-transmission adapter housing installed and the clutch assembly is in place.

Finished Motor Compartment

There’s a lot to see in this photo. 

First, notice the large bolt on the top of the motor, just above and right of the motor information plate.  This bolt goes through a short metal tab that is welded to the top motor mount strap.  This bolt and tab prevents the motor and transmission from twisting from the enormous motor torque.

Front and center you will see my old oil pan.  It now serves to deflect rain that comes in the front of the vehicle and prevents it from getting into the motor brushes without blocking airflow.

Top left is the variable resistor and micro switch assembly, which is mechanically connected to the ‘gas’ pedal via a flexible cable.  The variable resistor tells the controller how much current to feed to the motor.  The controller is just to the left and above the motor, mounted on a 5/16” thick aluminum plate.  Both the motor and the controller run cool, barely above body temperature.

To the right and above the motor is my homemade battery charger.  As an electronics engineer, I was able to design and build this to save about $1000 or so.  I also designed and built the 12-V charger, not shown in this picture.  The charger is kept separated from the main battery bank as a safety measure, in case a small amount of hydrogen is released from the batteries during charge.  Now don’t get all excited about that statement.  Unless the batteries are charged at too high of a voltage (7.2 V per battery or higher), the hydrogen that is released will be immediately reabsorbed inside the battery and will not escape into the air.  Still, a good idea to separate electronics from batteries.

The gray box, top center mounted to the firewall, contains the heavy-duty contactor that passes the heavy current to the controller when it is energized.  The control circuitry and the micro switch control the heavy-duty contactor.

Controller: Curtis model 1231C-8601, 96-144VDC, 500 Amps max, 0 to 5 k/ohm input - now for sale slightly used - $950 Sold

Speed Control w/micro switch: Curtis PB-6
Motor: Advanced DC 9.1", shaft each end, 203-06-4001A

Speed Control Installation

Bed Framing

The original bed weighed 320 pounds.  Using aluminum framing and ABS plastic sheathing, I was able to reduce that weight and provide a nice compartment for the batteries.  Aluminum sheathing can be used as well.  90-degree angle plates and angle brackets give the new bed excellent rigidity.  Self-drilling screws make the frame work easy.

The ABS sheathing was attached using countersunk stainless-steel #8 sheet-metal screws.  The ABS sheathing can be painted with standard auto paint if you desire.

Finished

Here she is!  The taillights and side running lights are very bright LED assemblies purchased from the local auto parts store.  I added fog lights to the rear, just under the bumper on each side, for backup lights.  For additional safety, I placed a 12-V beeper under the rear bumper that activates when I set the transmission into reverse – a courtesy to parking lot pedestrians.

The total conversion time was about 4 months, which included most evenings, most weekends and about 7 vacation days.  My total cost including the truck was about $10,000.

The truck is very maneuverable and fun to drive.  It still has its power ABS brakes and cabin air bags.

Insuring this vehicle was no problem.  I kept the same insurance company and they didn't care when I told them about the conversion.  They wouldn't give me a discount either. :-)